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Q: I have a 30-year Yellow Transparent apple tree in my yard that keeps dropping its apples before they ripen. Any suggestions as to why, and is there a solution?

A: There may be a few reasons for the premature fruit drop. Waterlogged soil and root stress are possible reasons. Record-breaking summer rainfall and frequent storms saturate the

soil. When ground stays waterlogged, roots are starved of oxygen. This root stress forces a mature tree to shed its heaviest loads, namely, developing fruit in an effort to survive.

A second possible cause is a lack of sunshine and warmth. We have had cool, cloudy weather that reduced the sunlight required for the tree to generate sugars. Lacking sufficient energy to sustain a full crop, the tree naturally aborts fruit.

Lastly, it could be a fungal issue. Continuous moisture combined with cool temperatures creates an ideal environment for fungi like apple scab. If a fungal infection attacks the apple stems, it triggers an early ‘abscission layer’ that disconnects the fruit from the branch.

As to what can be done. Stop any supplemental watering right away. From your photos, I see the tree is surrounded by lawn. If you are watering the lawn, the tree is getting watered as well. I would also cut a circle out around the base of the tree. Remove the grass within a 1.5-meter circle around the trunk. Grass traps surface moisture and competes with the tree’s roots.

Pick up all fallen apples immediately. Leaving rotting fruit in a wet environment rapidly spreads fungal spores and overwintering pests into the soil, risking next year’s crop.

Also, take the time to closely check remaining leaves for yellowing, wilting, or dark velvety spots to rule out any insect causes.

Q: I want to have plenty of colour in my garden next spring. Is the end of September too early or too late to plant spring-flowering bulbs? By the way we love your column!

A: Thank you for your kind words. This is actually an ideal time to start planting spring bulbs. In Alberta, bulbs such as tulips, daffodils, crocuses, hyacinths and alliums should be planted in the fall, allowing them to establish roots before the ground freezes.

Choose a sunny, well-drained location. Dig a hole roughly two to three times as deep as the bulb is tall, with the pointed end facing upward. Space the bulbs according to the instructions on the package; planting them in groups or clusters generally creates a much better display than scattering them individually.

After planting, water the area thoroughly. Once the ground begins to freeze, adding a layer of mulch can help protect the bulbs from repeated freezing and thawing.

Don’t worry if you see a little green growth appearing later in the fall. Some bulbs, particularly tulips and daffodils, may send up shoots before winter without being seriously harmed.

Every week, Growing Things Outdoors runs online at edmontonjournal.com or, if you prefer an epaper format, epaper.edmontonjournal.com

Learn more by emailing your questions to filipskigerald@gmail.com, reading past columns or my book Just Ask Jerry. You can also follow me on X (Twitter) @justaskjerry01.