As the lights dimmed and ballerinas flanked a giant art sculpture of Geneva’s Jet d’Eau, a parade of models in evening gowns sashayed around the centerpiece to debut Patek Philippe‘s newest lineup of women’s watches, the Gondolo Ladies First collection, at the company’s latest and largest Grand Exhibition, this year held in Milan. Guests who had earlier worked their way through the many rooms of the exhibition space may have noticed ads for a similar model from 2009, the Ref. 7071R Ladies First Chronograph. That piece debuted in a similar cushion-shaped case with a dial also surrounded by diamonds, but it was the first women’s model to house the Swiss watchmaker’s caliber CH 29-535 PS, Patek Philippe’s first manually wound chronograph caliber developed and manufactured entirely in-house. It was followed by a Ladies First Minute Repeater in 2011.

The new Gondolos dubbed “Ladies First,” however, are powered by the E15 quartz movement. Despite the prestige of mechanical movements, they may not be for everyone. Stern says tastes for quartz versus mechanical vary depending on the market. Female clients in Asia, he says, prefer mechanical timekeepers, while Europe is split with 60 percent gravitating towards design and 40 percent more interested in movements. America, he notes, is less clear-cut. “I think America is more traditional,” he explains. “But it will be hard to have only quartz movements in America, that’s for sure, and maybe to have a men’s complicated watch can be also a little bit tricky.” He says the Ellipse and Calatrava do well in the U.S.—while acknowledging that the Nautilus, Aquanaut, and some men’s complications are also sought after by women stateside—but essentially it’s important to offer both options.

At 31 mm by 34.8 mm and 8.03 mm thick, the new Gondolos are a bit more diminutive than the round-cased 34.6 mm ladies Calatrava watches launched earlier this year. It’s in line with case sizes trending smaller for both women and men. For now, all variations come with diamonds, although one could imagine versions without gemstones would also be very popular, perhaps even preferable to some women.

The new lineup is elegant, with a case shape that will appeal to those seeking something outside the norm of rectangular or round case shapes. References 7034R (with a chestnut opaline dial), 7034G (with a blue-gray opaline dial), and 7043GR (with a silvery opaline dial) come with a flange of 108 diamonds that feel subtle enough to transition from day to night. Fully pave dial plates are set with 303 diamonds on the Ref. 7043/250R-01 (with 12 trapeze-cut tsavorite hour markers), Ref. 7403/250G-001 (with 12 trapeze-cut topaz hour markers), and the Ref. 7403/250GR-001 (with 12 trapeze-cut amethyst hour markers) high jewelry options. But if you really prefer to go all out on stones, all three of these references also come in iterations set with 411 diamonds on the dial and flange, 253 diamonds on the case, and 23 diamonds on the buckle of their matching alligator-leather straps.

Prices for the collection range from $37,510 up to $68,768 for the completely decked gemstone versions. Prices are steep, particularly considering the new mechanical ultra-thin self-winding gold ladies’ Calatrava models, launched at Watches & Wonders this past year retail for $37,635, albeit without diamonds. But the new collection is sure to resonate. And given the amount of variations and the fact that Stern says it’s been at least a few years in the making, he’s betting it will too. He does, however, admit that making room for more ladies’ timepieces has been a challenge because they are currently offering an output of watch at their full capacity. “I do understand we need more ladies’ watches, but we cannot reduce the amount of men’s watches,” he says, while adding, “I do not see why ladies should not have the biggest amount of choice…We have the legitimacy, we have the will, we have the knowledge to do that.”

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  Paige Reddinger

  Deputy Editor, Watch & Jewelry Editor

  As Robb Report's deputy editor and watch editor, Reddinger is immersed in all things horological. She has visited the top manufacturers in Switzerland and Germany, attended high-profile auctions and…

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