A brother-and-sister team from Shanghai opened this modest takeout eatery on Gladstone Avenue this summer.

If there’s one thing I know, it’s that Ottawa suffers from a dim sum deficit.

In the last few years, notable — and, in some cases, beloved — dim sum restaurants in the city have closed. I and others miss Hung Sum and the Yangtze in Chinatown, Palais Imperial and 99 VIP Seafood in the ByWard Market, and Mandarin Ogilvie in the Ottawa’s east end. Still, a few more modest eateries such as Cafe Orient make good dim sum on a small scale, and a new Yangtze is reportedly to open this fall. Nonetheless, Ottawa fans of Southern Chinese dumplings and other snacks may still feel deprived.

I recently went to the new takeout restaurant Zen Bowl on Gladstone Avenue hoping it would satiate my dim sum cravings. After three visits, I can recommend its dim sum items, albeit with some caveats. But I have greater praises for other specialties here.

Opened in late July, Zen Bowl is owned and operated by siblings Jenny and Philip Wang. Both came years ago to Ottawa from Shanghai for higher education. But frustrations with their careers outside of food drove them to open their eatery.

Jenny, 31, studied economics at university and worked for a federal department before workplace adjustment kicked in and she took a voluntary leave. Her younger brother studied computer science at Algonquin College but now AI has derailed his ambitions in that field. It’s easy to feel sorry for them, but also be glad they’re selling some great dumplings and good noodle dishes at Zen Bowl.

Because of the local dim sum shortage, l’ll say first that the Wangs sells some very solidly made and affordable dim sum staples at Zen Bowl.

Steamed shrimp dumplings (har gow, $6.29 for four) had chunky, plump fillings and thin, proper skins, as did their sister dumplings that also include scallops ($6.79 for four). Steamed, open-ended dumplings made with pork ($4.59 for four) or shrimp and pork ($4.99 for four) surpass what’s available elsewhere in the city. Barbecue pork buns ($5.99 for two) also had superior fillings and doughy casings. Although I’ve yet to try the black and gold custard lava buns, which feature salted egg yolk custard in a black bun, I’m definitely intrigued.

What’s the catch? The Wangs do not make their dim sum. Instead, they bring it in, frozen, from a great supplier. The outsourcing makes sense, given their bare-bones staffing and even the size of their premises, which was a former Indian takeout restaurant. If you think bringing in a product line from an outside supplier is cheating, then you should probably take note of the frozen fries that surpass house-made fries at many Ottawa eateries.

Meanwhile, the Wangs do make their own Shanghainese pan-fried buns ($6.79 for four) and soup dumplings ($7.99 for eight), and they should be on every Chinese food fan’s radar.

The pan-fried buns filled with pork were excellent — the best in the city, I think. They were exceptionally juicy, so much so that you need to be very intentional eating them, nipping an opening in the dough to very deliberately drink the broth. If you don’t, you and your clothes could wind up becoming a juicy mess. Taking care is worth it, though, because everything about these buns smacks of quality.

While I can’t resist ordering the Shanghainese pan-fried buns at Bite & Bite on Merivale Road when I pop by, I think Zen Bowl’s buns are better still.

“The recipe is from my mom,” Jenny Wang says.

Her steamed soup dumplings were nearly as impressive as the pan-fried buns. The Wangs achieve admirably thin skins that nonetheless hold their broth and fillings. Again, the fillings and broth were delectable and salty.

Zen Bowl also makes several larger dishes, of which the best feature house-made noodles.

The Wang’s version of Sichuan famed dan dan noodles ($14.79) were complex and satisfying, although not as spicy or numbing as I’ve had elsewhere.

Of the classic beef noodle soup ($15.79) and pork won ton soup ($8.99), I would opt for the latter. That’s my bias talking, but I also think there’s better value and flavour in the won ton soup, which boasted a seaweed-boosted broth, as per the Shanghainese custom.

I could wish that a few things were different at Zen Bowl. Above all, dining there is an awkward proposition, limited to just one or two people sitting on hard wooden stools, with food served in too much plastic.

On the other hand, the things the Wangs do well can be quite good, including their beverage program focusing on espresso coffee and tea-based drinks. The pluses here are appealing enough to make the drive to Zen Bowl to pick up your food worthwhile. Hopefully your drive home to Centretown isn’t too long.

Even if things take an upturn this fall for Ottawa’s dim sum fans, Zen Bowl remains a suitable stopgap. And if you’re like me, the Wangs could convert you into a regular simply for their Shanghainese pan-fried buns alone.

569 Gladstone Ave., 613-853-0936, zenbowlottawa.ca

Open: Wednesday, Thursday 11:30 a.m. to 8:30 p.m., Friday 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m., Saturday, Sunday 12:30 to 8:30 p.m., closed Monday, Tuesday

Prices: dim sum items, small bites and dumplings $4.59 to $8.99, noodle bowls $9.79 to $15.99

Access: Steps to front door

Note: eatery is takeout only; no washrooms

Want to stay in the know about what’s happening in Ottawa? Sign up for the Ottawa Citizen’s arts and life newsletter — Out of Office — our weekly guide to eating, listening, reading, watching, playing, hanging, learning and living well in the capital.